“There are no beggars in Mahe”, a gleeful Mr. Tayil Sadanandan erupts amidst the noise of the rain on my already weather-assaulted umbrella. Struggling to have someone speak to me about this elusive in detail, Mr. Sadanandan made my second attempt at Mahe absolutely worthwhile. Recently retired as the Superintendent of Education, he is currently working tirelessly for the inception of a Mahe Tourism Assistance Cell. In November 2004, he published a book, ‘The origins of Mahe of Malabar’, a translation of the works of French writer Alfred Martineau. The book gives a detailed account of the history of Mahe from 1720 till date. He will be happy to direct you to the right places to see in Mahe and has a sumptuous fill of stories for a walk around the streets.
Mahe – One of the four fragments of Pondicherry on the western coast of India may appear to be a hostile little town at 5.30 a.m. on a dark rainy morning. You can expect a dash of skeptism if you are a single female traveler but that’s only if it’s an odd hour to arrive. A languorous exploration through the streets will lead you to some beautiful French houses, government buildings and a vast variety of flora and fauna. Embedded between Thelassery and Vadakara in Kerala, you can step in and out of Mahe and Kerala as you go along the roads as there is no clear demarcation between the two.This 9 kilometer square town is further fragmented by the Mahe River, which houses a small boat harbour. The only way to explore this languid place is preferable on foot but you can take an auto rickshaw at a very reasonable cost, and if you are lucky Mr. Tayil can find the time to fill you in with anecdotes and legends that are more re-corroborated facts rather than just myths.
A French settlement for a number of years, Mahe is, astonishingly, struggling to find an eminent spot on the travel map ofIndia. It well deservedly should be visited by a selective adventurous crowd, not looking for any lavish hotels. Interestingly, there are close to 16 petrol pumps on a stretch of about 8 kms in Mahe. Popularly known as a stop for cheap alcohol and fuel, it is an obvious stop for trucks & other vehicles on this West Coast highway. Though this is the only mention about Mahe on websites and travel books, the place has a lot more to offer.
Mahe is highly recommended as a “must do on a weekend” fromBangalore. It is a very convenient overnight journey by ample private and state run buses fromBangalore. One has to ensure that you are accompanied with a heavy duty umbrella if you are traveling in the months of June & July, just at the break of Monsoon. Though there are a couple of hotels available along the main Thelassery road, where one can find affordable accommodation, you can give it a try at the Govt. Guest house which has an impressive backyard- the sea! Home-stays, which would be ideal, are yet to start in this town. One can also make Cannonore the base camp and travel Southwards by bus. Mahe offers a spectacular variety of flora & fauna, the confluence of the Arabian Seaand the river Mahe right under a prominent bridge along with plenty of temples and old buildings with great historic relevance.
The Puthalam temple, believed to have been built 1000s of years ago, has been visited by M.K Gandhi, which is reminiscent by a marble stone at the entrance. A simplistic temple built for 3 gods, houses a holy grove behind it. This feature, specific and prevalent to all Malabar temples, signifies the respect for nature. By not putting an axe to any plants, the grove is free to grow wildly behind the temple premises without any human intervention. It also suffices for the temple keepers. The legend has it that during a conflict between the French and the Indian army, the French got an advantageous position behind the temple on top of a hill. The Indians who were attacking from below ran out of water and dug some wells for the soldiers. These open wells are still present and one can peep through the thick foliage to see Mangosteins growing in these. The annual temple festival is held on the 8th of March every year.
A fifty year old Shri Krishna temple is popular for its low cost yet grand marriages; an important piece of information for those who are looking at a picturous backdrop for a low-key wedding.
The Mansion of the Administrative Officer of Mahe serves as a picturous spot, overlooking the confluence of theMaheRiverwith the Arabian Sea. If you get permission, you can climb the steps behind the office to have a look at the old lighthouse and the flag past of the French. Photography of the lighthouse is prohibited. Adjoining the office is the Tagore Park. Well manicured, the park stands at the edge of the sea and has a tombstone in memory of soldiers, a statue of Marianne and several other statues. You can also have a look at the upcoming harbour, which will serve as a mode of revenue apart from the alcohol shops, petrol pumps, fishing and the lone spinning mill of the area.
Though Malaya Kalagramam is technically not a part of Mahe, you can walk across the bridge to Kerala and see this fabulous art school, inspired by the eminent painter K.C Panicker. Funded by the AVK trust from Chennai, the building is a serene haven for students of art, sculpturing, music and dance. They have several short term & long term courses in various streams of art. It also has a residential facility for the students and teachers.
The other accessible places going northwards along the coast from Mahe are the Mazhapillangade drive-in beach in Edkal, Thalassery and Kannur. The other places to drop by are the only French School remaining in the town, St. Theresa’s church, old houses built with typical French architectural features and a walk to the beaches if the weather permits. It is an unassuming little town to assimilate on a laid-back weekend.