The Glorious Backyard of Hampi – Go Air

 

I heave myself to the last of the steep steps on the mountain in an attempt to make it to an inconspicuous white temple perched on top. Having barely caught my breath and absorbed the magnificent topography of strewn boulders, typical of this region, is when I’m ushered conspiringly into a small dark temple. With the language gap adding to the mystery, a gaunt priest and his weathered wife question possessively on my lone travels and then relate the tale of monkey God Hanuman who was born there. They also give me permission to photograph the otherwise restricted revered sanctum of the Lord after sharing a hot cup of tea. I am told with almost uncomfortable inflexibility, that I will return! And yes I did, not once, but several times to the village of Anegundi – more prepared, better read and less baffled by the peculiar couple. Each time I have gone back to the monkey kingdom of Kishkinda, more un-treaded paths have unfolded, discoveries made and mysteries unravelled.

Sometimes even the most popular tourist jaunts have their own little secrets hidden away for the discerning traveller. Elusive from the hoardes of weekend go-ers or the backpackers, Anegundi is tucked away across the Tungabhadra River in Hampi. While the glorious Vijaynagar Kingdom and now its ruins are often represented and celebrated through Hampi, Anegundi is said to go back many more centuries as the Kingdom of Monkeys and birth place of Lord Hanuman. The epic Ramayana makes several references to Anegundi. It is said to be 3000 million years old and one of the oldest plateaus in the world.

Anegundi is the kind of place where a guide book will be quickly discarded. Lush green mustard fields interspersed with the brown bouldered topography is best to explore on foot or a local auto. Wander off in the village to find historic architectural masterpieces in an unassuming backdrop, making them even more charming. The first thing that may catch you eye, is the simplistic yet fascinating local houses. Mostly white washed, these have carved wooden pillars and a splash of colour on the windows. The integral ‘rangoliadds to the local flavour. The other places to visit are, the Anegundi Lord Ranganatha Temple, Chintamani, the grand Fort gate, Nava Brindabana, Pampa Sarovara Laxmi temple, Gagan Palace, Basadi Jain Temple, Nandi pillar and the Huchchaiappana Mutt. Ofcourse the essential climb of close to 600 steps to the Anegundi temple from where you can view the entire village is best at early mornings and late evenings. A relatively unknown reservoir in Anegundi, the Sanapur Reservoir, is also home to many birds for those who are interested in bird watching. On the way to the reservoir, ask for the cave paintings amongst the rocky landscape. It may be a short walk from the main road, but are worth your while.

Working relentlessly for the upliftment of the village and making the people economically empowered, is the over a decade old organisation, The Kishkinda Trust. Preserving culture, traditions, architectural heritage and creating a sustainable living standard for the villagers are the key areas of work for the trust, led by Ms. Shama Pawar. Many self sustainable women centric groups are doing some fantastic work here. One such group offers a delectable service of providing the local food to visitors. The authentic Kannada rotis with different types of chutneys and condiments make for an authentic travel experience. Watch them roast your fare on the fire and serve them fresh! Some of the other initiatives include a natural fibre cottage industry using bananas, a rural tourism project which provides alternative stay options in restored traditional houses, architectural conservation and education through performing arts. Visit the Kishkinda Trust office to know more or just spend some time at Temma House, the village library.

The lesser traversed Anegundi makes for a modest holiday and learning experience, with intimate local interaction. The splendid lineage is not over glorified and makes one feel that you unearthed the place yourself. Understated, yet enriching, it’s a great one for those who have denounced manicured lawns, swimming pools and resorts and are looking for some meaningful travel.

How to Get There – Anegundi is 40 kms from the closest rail head, Hospet. One can hire autos or buses to reach by road. The easier option is to arrive in Hospet and take a shared auto till Hampi. From there, cross the Tungabhadra River in a local boat and take a short drive in an auto to Anegundi. Hospet is well connected by buses and trains from parts of Karnataka and the closest metro, Bangalore.

Where to Stay –The Kishkinda Trust has several options like the Peshegar Guest House, Champa Guest House, Sharada Homestay & Shama’s Cottages.

Where to Eat – Hoova Cafe – The basic green chairs, a lone picture of Hanuman and an elite company of the neighbourhood children, this is an ideal place for a set thaali (lunch plate). You can peep into the kitchen and make slight amendments to your food and be sure to get the most refreshing smile from the lady who runs this café.

Also, try the women’s group known for their special rotis.

When to Travel – The weather in Anegundi is hot and dry through the year. The best season to travel is between October and February. Even in the supposed high tourist time, Anegundi is not known to be really crowded. Though, it’s best to book your stay ahead.

Plan Around – The River Tern concerts are held every year, where esteemed performers set stage by the Tungabhadra River. One must check before travelling there. Also, between September and May, people come together for the Anegundi Santhe, a social market, where locals showcase craft, delicacies and cultural performance. This is help on full moon nights at an old monument called Talawar Gatta.

Language Spoken – Kannada, Hindi and a spattering of English. You can get English speaking guides from the Kishkinda Trust. Contact -Tel/Fax: +91-8533- 267777/91,
E-Mail: anegundi@thekishkindatrust.org, tkt_ag@yahoo.com